Guipuzcoa - From great basic cooking to the Michelin star paradise

Guipuzcoa is together with Cataluña one of the main references of the European gastronomic scene. The good thing if you are passionate about food, is that whenever you visit any town in Guipuzcoa and get into any single bar or restaurant to grab some lunch, you will always be happy. It is really difficult to fail.
For me, basque food could be divided into three different categories: Basic Raw Cooking, pintxos (basque tapas) and refined innovative cuisine (with a clear french influence). 
Of course if you think about prices, the basic ones are more affordable than the pintxos and the innovative cuisine is a little pricey as it requires a lot of manpower.

Hake with clams (photo rights by Jaula de Ardilla

First category: Raw cooking.If you like to eat big dishes with great tasty food this is definitely your choice. Meat or fish is all you have to choose. Of course you will get much more in this places (salads with farmer fresh products, omelettes (from organic fresh eggs),local produce cheeses, and great local artisan desserts. 
Among my favorites under this category are Restaurante Portuetxe (best beef steak you ever had), Bedua Grill (spectacular old caserio setting), Saltxipi (great fried hake), Hermandad de Pescadores (fishermen brotherhood) in Hondarribia (monkfish, turbot and hake), and Arantzabi (red beans). 
Rekondo and Txomin are also good ones in this category in San Sebastian.

Fried Pads Pintxo

Second category: Pintxos (basque name for tapas).It is a pleasure to walk around the city and find bars where you can enjoy amazing pintxos. Among my favorite places for Pintxos in the Old Quarter (Parte Vieja) are Gambara (ham croissants and scrambled eggs with mushrooms), Bernardoetxea (foie pintxo), Casa Gandarias, Bar Martinez (octopus) and Cuchara de San Telmo (goat cheese risotto and duck magret).
If you walk around Gros (next to Zurriola beach) try Aloñaberri (very sophisticated pintxos) and Patio Ramuntxo (superb risotto with funghi and Idizabal cheese).
Nearby the Buen Pastor Cathedral and Reyes Catolicos street I would recommend el Valles for ham and el Rincon (great spanish omelette and wonderful service). 

Third category: Gastronomic temples.Depending on your wallet and your appetite you could try one of the top Michelin star restaurants in San Sebastian and surroundings. The most famous chefs work with a troop of cooks to innovate and surprise you. Although sometimes you do not even know what are your eating, most places are awesome. 
My favorite ones in this category are Arzak, Akelarre, Martin Berasategui, Zuberoa and Kokotxa.
I will post about all these restaurants and bars in detail. Check for them in my site....
Enjoy it!

La Cuchara de San Telmo

La cuchara de San Telmo is a classic San Sebastian pintxos bar which opened 12 years ago and has became one of the favorite bars from people all around the world. Among my favorite pintxos there you should try the sauteed foie gras with apple compote, the duck magret (lovely), the veal cheeks in red wine, the tempura cod and of course the creamy risotto with goat cheese (what an awesome taste...) The lamb croquettes are also a must, and if you are still hungry try one of their innovative desserts like the cold strawberry cappuccino or the rice pudding with cinnamon.

Duck magret Pintxo

Ask the locals about the place if you do not want to get lost. It is really tiny and always crowded but its worth making a visit as the quality is among the best in town. Enjoy !!

Bar Martinez San Sebastian

The Martinez Bar is one of my favorites in la Parte Vieja (Old square san Sebastian). It was opened on May 1942 by Manuel Martinez. It is located at 13, 31 Agosto street. 
The famous pintxo in Martinez is the traditional cold pintxo "Gilda" composed by olives, anchovies and pickles. Hot garlic mushroons are also great. 

If you visit Martinez for dinner, try to get there early (around 8 pm), as otherwise it would be really difficult to get a good table to grab your pintxos. The bar is a little narrow as many others in Old San Sebastian. It could be a nice tour to start in Gambara, visit Casa Gandarias and finish in Bar Martinez (see my other posts).
Among other dishes I recommend the octopus, the fried anchovies and the grilled pork loin.  Great ham sandwiches and omelettes. Great wine selection. Enjoy !!

Semana Grande San Sebatian

Toro de fuego (Bull in Fire). photo shared by Jose Maria Moreno

Semana Grande is the Big Fiesta of the year in San Sebastian. If you like to party and bustle this is the week when you should visit San Sebastian. Fireworks Contest (probably one of the best contest in the world as many companies come from all around the world to the Concha Bay), firebull in the streets, beaches full of people, crowded and lively restaurants.

The city dresses up to receive a fllood of tourists from around the world.


During Semana Grande it is difiicult to find parking spaces around the city, so it is better if you avoid renting a car. Use the public transportation which is really good all around the city. Take also de Euskotrain  called Topo to visit Hendaye (France) or Bilbao. Buses are also available to visit nearby towns and beaches.

Ondarreta is a great option to lay on the beach these days. It is less crowded than la Concha or la Zurriola and you can easily walk or take a bus there. You should cross a mountain called "Pico del Loro" as it is shaped like a Parrot's peak.


Needless to say if you want to visit a Michelin star restaurant you should book it at least three months in advance for Semana Grande. But it is worth to simply grab a casual pintxo dinner in the Old Part of the city. As americans like to have dinner early, you will not have problems finding a place to eat, as basque people usually have dinner around 9 pm.


Lucky if you find a place to sleep in Semana Grande. Hotels are full, check apartments for rent or Hostales (inns) in towns around Sanse like Lasarte, Zarautz or Fuenterrabia (Hondarribi).

La Bretxa Farmers Market - Organic food

If there is a place where all senses are awaken, this is la Bretxa market. Like many farmers markets across the US, you will find all sorts of vegetables, fruits, basque cheeses and flowers.

It is located at the entrance of the Old Square (Parte Vieja), close to the one of the bridges that leads to the Kursaal.....

What a better way to explain it than leaving you this video....

St Jean de Luz - relax at the beach and enjoy basque artisan shopping Rue Gambetta

One of the best places to visit from San Sebastian on a day trip is of course St Jean de Luz (France). St Jean is also in the french side of the basque country so you do not feel crossing the border between France and Spain.

There are many things to do in St Jean. You can just grab a sandwich in a french cafe or take a look to the paintings in the square next to the fishermen port. The port is a nice place to start from before going shopping in the pedestrian Rue Gambetta street.

Rue Gambetta is well known for basque artisan clothing, towels and tablecloths. You could also buy basque style sandals at Pare Gabia famous shop and enjoy tasting french foie, cheeses and all type of  chocolates.

There are a few patisseries where you can grab a cupcake or a delicious basque gateaux with a coffee or tea. Crepes and waffles are also sold along the way and you can take delicious ice creams in summer.

If you got a car try to visit the Urtubie Castle nearby and also the Fort Sokoa.

Casa Gandarias, great place for Pintxos in San Sebastian Old Quarter

One of my favorite places for pintxos, iberian ham and fried hake in San Sebastian, is Casa Gandarias. You can just grab some pintxos (basque tapas) at the bar, or enjoy a formal dinner in the restaurant. It is always very crowded but you could make space for your group and try their great cold and hot pintxos. Simply delicious!!

Casual lunch Bokado restaurant San Sebastian

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Bokado is a nice fast casual restaurant located above the San Sebastian's Aquarium. It is one of my favorites as it enjoys probably the best views of La Kontxa Bay and the city itself.

Very modern decor, with huge windows, wenge wood floors and spacious and bright rooms. 
The best way to get there is walking through the Old Port and taking the stairs or the new huge elevator. You can even get bikes inside the lift (if you rent them).

For casual lunch at noon take a seat in the terrace (no need to make reservation for this although it is normally very busy) and enjoy fried calamari, ommelettes, grilled foie and skewers....

After lunch I recommend taking a bike or walk tour through the Paseo Nuevo all around the Monte Urgull and enjoy the breaking waves. You may end taking a coffee in the Martin Berasategui kursaal terrace. 

Akelare restaurant. Great place and awesome food

Akelarre (Akelare in basque) is one of the best restaurants in the Basque Country. It enjoys a superb location which ensures a unique dining experience. Have dinner overlooking the Cantabrian ocean watching the fishing boats at a glimpse.
Being a fisherman is a risky work here as the ocean is so brave and they risk their lives to bring the best hake to our table.
Pedro Subijana is one of the best chefs in the Basque country. He mixes simplicity with great customer care and proximity. Innovation is all over the place from the kitchen to the new project as he has designed a new hotel with ocean view suites.
First class service and a classic decor with wood roofing. You should ask for a tasting menu   which combines different recipes. It is a little pricey but you wont regret going there, it is worth for a birthday or to celebrate a special family party or anniversary.

Last time I went there we took a light menu which was affordable for a Michelin starred restaurant (80 Euros approx). The crab dish and the cold salad were wonderful. After that we tried a superb dish of mushrooms with egg pasta and hake scalded with barnacles.

The most impressive thing was dessert . An apple pie wrapped in Akelare newspaper !! I will neve forget it, amazing texture, rich flavor and very innovative presentation.

Try this restaurant if you can afford it, niece service, great quality and wonderful setting !!

Superb apartments for rent in the heart of the city

Next to the San Sebastian Cathedral (and superbly located for all trips and plans) you find these two brand new fully equipped apartments as a great accommodation option for families or singles to rent. They are located in Moraza Kalea, in a fully refurbished old building  El Balcón del Buen Pastor next to Reyes Catolicos pedestrian walk.

I went to the upper floor deck one and enjoyed the views of the Cathedral and the Reyes Cartolicos pedestrian street. The deck surrounds the whole apartment and the high ceilings provide a great light.

It has a very modern and comfortable decoration with Air conditioned in place and even bikes included in the rental. Owners are basque and very nice open minded guys and they could help you with your travel arrangements .

The price is really fair for what you get, it is worth every single buck.

I do not have many pictures of the place but the owners have a wonderful blog where you can check both apartments. I did not have the chance to visit the small one but it seems the quality is the same and the decor looks great. They sent me the picture below with the updated deck decor. Wow !!

San Fermines- Pamplona

Uno de Enero, Dos de Febrero, Tres de Marzo, Cuatro de Abril, Cinco de Mayo, Seis de Junio, Siete de Julio San Fermin !!! A Pamplona hemos de ir con una bota con una bota!!

This is the classic song you will hear at San Fermin Bull runs (they are called Encierros). 
It is difficult to describe this Fiesta, you have to live it !!.
Worldwide famous Fiesta in Pamplona is just 45 minutes driving from San Sebastian.

In spanish they say "A picture is worth a thousand words" but I say a video even more!! 
Don't miss it if you are party souls, but do not bring your kids there and try to avoid the Big Fiesta day (7th of July) as it is very crowded....

If you are coming back to sleep in San Sebastian be sure to have a designated driver......

San Sebastian Food - Arzak michelin star

San Sebastian is famous for food as it is embedded in the basque culture. This is a great video about this issue and how basques join Gastronomic Societies. 

Enjoy this video about basque traditions, food, famous Michelin chef Juan Mari Arzak and fishermen concerns. 

The Londres Hotel in San Sebastian Kontxa beach

If you visit San Sebastian, one of the best chances to stay at is Hotel de Londres y de Inglaterra. Enjoy the balconies with superb ocean view of La Kontxa Bay. A nice terrace called Swing is a great place to meet with friends and grab a beer. If you want to go for a casual dinner you could try Brasserie Mari Galant, which specializes in traditional Basque food with hints of modern cuisine.  Try the duck salad with pickled foie txipirones or the grilled squid with noodles. Apple pie with Idiazabal cheese or creme brule are the best desserts.

The Londres Hotel is my favorite, has a charming character from many generations, and the service/price ratio and the superb location worth every single penny.

If you choose to stay at the Londres Hotel it is a must you make a reservation for an ocean view room. Do not stay at the back street rooms as they are ok but it is not the same experience.

Surfing in Zurriola beach San Sebastian

The good thing about San Sebastian is that you can easily walk to a beach like the Zurriola beach for urban surfing. As you can see in this video sometimes the waves are not that big, which is really good for rookies or intermediate surfers. Take a lesson at Pukas (classic Surf Shop in la Zurriola Beach) and enjoy !!

Tamborrada en Donosti - Traditional Festival San Sebastian

Photo shared by Alegria-Dulantzi

La Tamborrada is celebrated every year on January the 20th (San Sebastian Feast). Adults and children march across the city in different companies dressed as soldiers and cooks, playing their drums.

The city flag is risen at midnight and lowered at the end of the 24 hour celebration. Main meeting point is at Plaza Constitucion in the heart of the Old Part (Parte Vieja).

Photo Shared By Alegria-Dulantzi 

The tradition comes from the military actions that took place at the end of the 18th century, when locals where making fun of marching soldiers making processions with buckets from water pumps.

All schools live this custom with passion and there are numerous companies marching with children below 6 years. So cute and so enjoyable.....

Photo Shared by Jesus Gil Hernandez