New York Times recently spent 36 hours in San Sebastian

Don't miss this travel review from the New York Times and the superb album with recommendations about places to eat and to visit. Find a link below to a picture sample of a very modern Lasagna made with anchovies and Idiazabal cheese in Bodegon Alejandro. I have tried it and it is like a piece of heaven!!

http://www.nytimes.com/slideshow/2011/08/07/travel/20110807-SANSEBASTIAN-16.html


Nice work NY Times!!

Guipuzcoa - From great basic cooking to the Michelin star paradise

Guipuzcoa is together with Cataluña one of the main references of the European gastronomic scene. The good thing if you are passionate about food, is that whenever you visit any town in Guipuzcoa and get into any single bar or restaurant to grab some lunch, you will always be happy. It is really difficult to fail.
For me, basque food could be divided into three different categories: Basic Raw Cooking, pintxos (basque tapas) and refined innovative cuisine (with a clear french influence). 
Of course if you think about prices, the basic ones are more affordable than the pintxos and the innovative cuisine is a little pricey as it requires a lot of manpower.

Hake with clams (photo rights by Jaula de Ardilla

First category: Raw cooking.If you like to eat big dishes with great tasty food this is definitely your choice. Meat or fish is all you have to choose. Of course you will get much more in this places (salads with farmer fresh products, omelettes (from organic fresh eggs),local produce cheeses, and great local artisan desserts. 
Among my favorites under this category are Restaurante Portuetxe (best beef steak you ever had), Bedua Grill (spectacular old caserio setting), Saltxipi (great fried hake), Hermandad de Pescadores (fishermen brotherhood) in Hondarribia (monkfish, turbot and hake), and Arantzabi (red beans). 
Rekondo and Txomin are also good ones in this category in San Sebastian.

Fried Pads Pintxo

Second category: Pintxos (basque name for tapas).It is a pleasure to walk around the city and find bars where you can enjoy amazing pintxos. Among my favorite places for Pintxos in the Old Quarter (Parte Vieja) are Gambara (ham croissants and scrambled eggs with mushrooms), Bernardoetxea (foie pintxo), Casa Gandarias, Bar Martinez (octopus) and Cuchara de San Telmo (goat cheese risotto and duck magret).
If you walk around Gros (next to Zurriola beach) try Aloñaberri (very sophisticated pintxos) and Patio Ramuntxo (superb risotto with funghi and Idizabal cheese).
Nearby the Buen Pastor Cathedral and Reyes Catolicos street I would recommend el Valles for ham and el Rincon (great spanish omelette and wonderful service). 

Third category: Gastronomic temples.Depending on your wallet and your appetite you could try one of the top Michelin star restaurants in San Sebastian and surroundings. The most famous chefs work with a troop of cooks to innovate and surprise you. Although sometimes you do not even know what are your eating, most places are awesome. 
My favorite ones in this category are Arzak, Akelarre, Martin Berasategui, Zuberoa and Kokotxa.
I will post about all these restaurants and bars in detail. Check for them in my site....
Enjoy it!

La Cuchara de San Telmo

La cuchara de San Telmo is a classic San Sebastian pintxos bar which opened 12 years ago and has became one of the favorite bars from people all around the world. Among my favorite pintxos there you should try the sauteed foie gras with apple compote, the duck magret (lovely), the veal cheeks in red wine, the tempura cod and of course the creamy risotto with goat cheese (what an awesome taste...) The lamb croquettes are also a must, and if you are still hungry try one of their innovative desserts like the cold strawberry cappuccino or the rice pudding with cinnamon.

Duck magret Pintxo

Ask the locals about the place if you do not want to get lost. It is really tiny and always crowded but its worth making a visit as the quality is among the best in town. Enjoy !!

Bar Martinez San Sebastian

The Martinez Bar is one of my favorites in la Parte Vieja (Old square san Sebastian). It was opened on May 1942 by Manuel Martinez. It is located at 13, 31 Agosto street. 
The famous pintxo in Martinez is the traditional cold pintxo "Gilda" composed by olives, anchovies and pickles. Hot garlic mushroons are also great. 

If you visit Martinez for dinner, try to get there early (around 8 pm), as otherwise it would be really difficult to get a good table to grab your pintxos. The bar is a little narrow as many others in Old San Sebastian. It could be a nice tour to start in Gambara, visit Casa Gandarias and finish in Bar Martinez (see my other posts).
Among other dishes I recommend the octopus, the fried anchovies and the grilled pork loin.  Great ham sandwiches and omelettes. Great wine selection. Enjoy !!

Semana Grande San Sebatian

Toro de fuego (Bull in Fire). photo shared by Jose Maria Moreno

Semana Grande is the Big Fiesta of the year in San Sebastian. If you like to party and bustle this is the week when you should visit San Sebastian. Fireworks Contest (probably one of the best contest in the world as many companies come from all around the world to the Concha Bay), firebull in the streets, beaches full of people, crowded and lively restaurants.

The city dresses up to receive a fllood of tourists from around the world.


During Semana Grande it is difiicult to find parking spaces around the city, so it is better if you avoid renting a car. Use the public transportation which is really good all around the city. Take also de Euskotrain  called Topo to visit Hendaye (France) or Bilbao. Buses are also available to visit nearby towns and beaches.

Ondarreta is a great option to lay on the beach these days. It is less crowded than la Concha or la Zurriola and you can easily walk or take a bus there. You should cross a mountain called "Pico del Loro" as it is shaped like a Parrot's peak.


Needless to say if you want to visit a Michelin star restaurant you should book it at least three months in advance for Semana Grande. But it is worth to simply grab a casual pintxo dinner in the Old Part of the city. As americans like to have dinner early, you will not have problems finding a place to eat, as basque people usually have dinner around 9 pm.


Lucky if you find a place to sleep in Semana Grande. Hotels are full, check apartments for rent or Hostales (inns) in towns around Sanse like Lasarte, Zarautz or Fuenterrabia (Hondarribi).

La Bretxa Farmers Market - Organic food

If there is a place where all senses are awaken, this is la Bretxa market. Like many farmers markets across the US, you will find all sorts of vegetables, fruits, basque cheeses and flowers.

It is located at the entrance of the Old Square (Parte Vieja), close to the one of the bridges that leads to the Kursaal.....

What a better way to explain it than leaving you this video....

St Jean de Luz - relax at the beach and enjoy basque artisan shopping Rue Gambetta

One of the best places to visit from San Sebastian on a day trip is of course St Jean de Luz (France). St Jean is also in the french side of the basque country so you do not feel crossing the border between France and Spain.

There are many things to do in St Jean. You can just grab a sandwich in a french cafe or take a look to the paintings in the square next to the fishermen port. The port is a nice place to start from before going shopping in the pedestrian Rue Gambetta street.

Rue Gambetta is well known for basque artisan clothing, towels and tablecloths. You could also buy basque style sandals at Pare Gabia famous shop and enjoy tasting french foie, cheeses and all type of  chocolates.

There are a few patisseries where you can grab a cupcake or a delicious basque gateaux with a coffee or tea. Crepes and waffles are also sold along the way and you can take delicious ice creams in summer.

If you got a car try to visit the Urtubie Castle nearby and also the Fort Sokoa.